Sustainable Sterling? How Does that Work?

I received that very question from a woman who was browsing my jewelry designs the other week. Immediately, I clarified that the silver in my jewelry cannot qualify as sustainable in of itself, and began to explain the social and ethical concerns that my silver addresses instead. However, the production processes that go into my silver components can be considered eco-conscientious. I mentioned in an earlier blog post that I often have to make trade-offs in terms of fair trade vs. eco-friendly materials based on market availability. Although the inquisitive woman seemed satisfied by my response, I walked away feeling very frustrated. I, of course, want my silver to be BOTH fair trade and green.

my Plunging Necklace in Sterling Silver and Grey Pearl is handcrafted out of handmade fair trade sterling silver chain and cultured pearls (which have not been shown to have any effect on the environment)

The conversation didn't end there. It continued on in my thoughts for the next several weeks. Then it began to play out on discussion boards, blogs, and news articles. Finally, it rested on government websites and geological surveys. What I found is that actually silver jewelry is not quite as "un-sustainable" as one might think.

I've read mixed reports, but the over-arching theme is that recycling silver is a practice that goes back to ancient times, and much of the current supply is a mix of both new and recycled content. I even found a jewelry artist whose professor taught her that over 90% of the current supply is derived from recycled materials, although I couldn't find any info to back up that claim. In addition, according to the Silver Institute, at least 20% of the annual silver supply comes from recycled sources. The U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY CIRCULAR 1196–N states that "Overall, recycling accounts for more than half of the U.S. metal supply by weight and roughly 40 percent by value." Well, more than half is a good start, although the other half leaves much to be desired.

Now, don't get me wrong. I don't believe that a high percentage of recycled content in silver can compensate for the waste and ecological destruction caused by "dirty" mining. However, I wanted to point out that silver is a much kinder metal than it has the reputation for being.

So, where does that leave us? If forced to choose, which is more important: social responsibility, or sustainability?

Right now, I purchase my silver components through two major suppliers. One provides primarily handmade Thai Hill Tribe silver jewelry parts, and "is fair trade approved and an active member of the Fair Trade Federation and Co-op America. " The other offers handcrafted Bali silver beads, and though it does not hold a certification, "has been practicing fair trade since long before there was a term for it." I believe in the integrity of both of these companies, and enjoy working with them very much. I love their perspective on the world and their support of its artists, artisans and skilled craftspeople. I don't believe that their silversmiths, who live and work in remote villages, would have the same opportunities to learn, grow, and thrive without their support. So, in the case of superb artisan made silver beads, pins, and clasps, I will continue to shop the same lines without remorse.

On the flip side, there are some items that I have decided to craft on my own out of 100% recycled silver wire. Yes, it exists! I discovered a wholesaler that not only provides recycled precious metals, but also champions green practices throughout their facility. Their website states that "all company decisions are based on ethical and responsible choices that will positively impact the world." So, once I work through my current supply of wire, all of my wrapping will be done with sustainable sterling silver. I will also be fashioning my own earring hooks/closures out of this guilt-free metal. Be prepared for some exciting innovations, Aurora Palesca style!

So, although I can't get everything in one shot, for the moment, social and environmental responsibility will co-exist in my jewelry.

Oh, and one more thing. I just put in an order for several incredible eco-friendly hand-dyed silk cords and recycled sari ribbons. In the coming weeks, I will be designing a new line of fashion jewelry that cuts back on the precious metals period.

Stay tuned for more! In the meantime, you can learn more about Aurora Palesca Designs, and browse my current lines of jewelry, cards, and books at www.aurorapalesca.com